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The Rediff Special/ Nitin Gogoi

At the last frontier, Indian troops battle cold, loneliness

A special report from the Sino-Indian border in Arunachal Pradesh

At 15,500 feet and above, the normal parameters of human existence do not apply. For instance, a 10-minute walk could turn out to be fatal to a person unaccustomed to the altitude. And perched right up there is Bumla, one of the several outposts dotting the vast boundary with China in the Kameng sector of Arunachal Pradesh, where Indian soldiers guard the frontier come rain, snow or landslides or high altitude illness. It is all part of their daily routine.

"The troops have to be constantly on guard and supremely fit to survive in these conditions. Some of our posts, for instance, are above 16,000 to 17,000 feet and it is not easy to remain focused on the job unless there is high motivation," says Brigadier V D I Devavaram, commander of India's forward-most brigade in this sector.

The troops, which constitute the bulk of the mountain brigade, are required to patrol the borders, train themselves for any eventuality and battle the vagaries of the weather. Says Colonel Ashok Ambre, commanding officer of a battalion under Brigadier Devavaram: "The most important aspect of border management is the need to keep the spirits of the troops always high, for in these isolated heights, loneliness and frustration are the two biggest worries."

Then there are height-induced ailments like breathlessness and fatigue. Says a major, leading a company in the forward-most area and living with the troops: "Acclimatisation is essential for survival at these heights. It is mandatory for all personnel to undergo a three-tier acclimatisation at ascending levels starting from 7,000 feet." But while the system is designed to keep the jawans fit and their morale high, there have been several instances of seemingly-fit jawans falling prey to mountain sickness.

The military day begins at 0400 since daybreak is early on the mountains. The daily routine is exceedingly tough. Even at minus 20 degrees during the winter and with knee- to waist-deep snow around, the individual may have to go for patrolling for up to 12 hours -- including scaling peaks and descending into deep gorges. Or the soldier may have to man one of the several bunkers that dot the icy peaks in order to keep a hawk's eye watch on the border.

At the base camp, the jawans and the officers are provided with the best possible living conditions under the circumstances. Each post has recently been provided with a generator and a dish antenna for television entertainment. Some posts are extremely isolated and can be reached only after three days of arduous trekking. These are consequently totally air-maintained -- rations, equipment and mail have to be air-dropped.

The air link is tenuous at best. Because of great heights (the highest pass -- Sela -- is at 13,700 feet) and extremely foggy conditions, the helicopters cannot often get through. And though the road is much better than it was during the Chinese war nearly four decades ago, it is still at the mercy of the weather.

A vital part of the Indian defence along the Chinese border is formed by the Border Roads Organisation. Without the BRO, it would be impossible to maintain the only road that connects Tawang to Tezpur, the Corps headquarters. It is indeed a far cry from 1962 when the troops did not have any logistic support, leave alone winter clothing.

Thirty-seven years ago, the Indian army was in no shape to fight any scientific battle since the military and political leadership did not provide the necessary infrastructure needed to fight a war in the high ranges. The scene today, while still stark, has seen a tremendous change. Both road and telecommunication backup is very good.

Nearly four decades after the Chinese swept through the hills of the then NEFA (North East Frontier Agency), now Arunachal Pradesh, to reach within striking distance of Tezpur in the plains of Assam, the Indian army has strengthened its defences along its northern borders.

The preparedness is evident throughout the 400 km drive from Tezpur to Bumla, the last post where the Indian and Chinese officials have their routine border personnel meetings twice every year. As Lieutenant General D B Shekatkar, commander of the 4 Corps which has the overall responsibility of guarding the Chinese frontier, says: "Our defences are impeccable now. I think the other side knows this. Still we don't take any chances."

Caution is a constant watchword here. As officers posted in the sector point out, despite the new entente between India and China, it cannot be trusted. As an analyst commented: "One should not forget the Sumdorung Choo incident in 1986 (when the Chinese troops intruded into that area, almost sending the two countries to war again). It took them 24 years after 1962 to indulge in mischief. What is the guarantee that they will not do it again? After all, Beijing still maintains that Arunachal Pradesh is its territory."

It is in this deceptive calm that the Indian soldiers do their job -- a safety valve for a frost-bitten relationship.

Yet both China and India have de-escalated their troop strength on the border after a series of confidence building measures initiated in 1987. Instead of a two-division strength (20,000 soldiers) India has a little over a brigade strength (over 5,000 troops) in this sector. China has also correspondingly reduced its strength. A system of regular meetings between the two sides to discuss minor details is also in place.

The frontier is peaceful, but as a senior officer says: "Only eternal vigil will ensure peace and tranquility." And that is what the Indian soldiers do, come severe winter, heavy monsoon or extreme loneliness.

The Rediff Specials

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