Some time today, the world's most powerful man will hand over the baton. Among the other things he may do, now that he is free from the pressures of State and threats of indictment, is visit a country that has made a big impression on him.

This time though, he will be in India as a tourist. Not that it would make a difference to Beena Kak or Fateh Singh or Dr Kanchan Mathur or Rajiv Mohan Lall Mehra. They have already met William Jefferson Clinton and would have absolutely no hesitancy in welcoming him into their lives once again. Such is the impact the president of the United States made on them when he visited India last March.

President Clinton breaks the security cordon to shake hands with the Maurya Sheraton staff

He did not behave like he was the most powerful man on earth," says Rajasthan's Tourism Minister Beena Kak, Clinton's official guide during his visit to the state. "He impressed us with his charisma and his friendliness. He shook hands with ordinary people. He was so interested in everything, he kept asking questions. I did not, even for a second, feel he was the president of the United States."

As she conducted him around the picturesque state, she would talk of Rajasthan's valiant warriors, of its romantic legends and of the state's pre-independence days. When she was telling him about araish (the art of crushing shells into a paste that would then be studded with stones), Clinton actually pitched in with information; it was an art he was familiar with.

At one point, while she was taking him around the Amir Fort, a monkey jumped down in front of the president. Kak, nervous that his security detail would shoot the animal, tried to hide the intruder by standing in front of it. "Then," she recalls, "the president defused the situation with one simple action. He threw his garland to the monkey, which began to eat it. He smiled and turned towards the photographers, asking them to record the monkey's feast."

President Clinton with the Bukhara chefs

Kak even gave him a tour of Amir Fort's royal kitchens, which are usually not open to tourists. As she narrated the story of the birth of Ram, which is depicted on its walls, Clinton remembered that Ayodhya was Ram's birthplace.

At the end of his visit, Kak gifted him 11 frogs made out of semi-precious stones. After his return, Clinton wrote to her, "Your frogs are happy in America, but a part of my heart is in India."

His mother-in-law Dorothy Rodham and daughter Chelsea too left deep impressions. Chelsea, says Kak, was a "well brought-up child, very affectionate and down-to-earth. She is capable of mixing with all kinds of people." Dorothy wrote to Kak on her return, saying the family would like to return to Rajasthan for a longer visit.

For Fateh Singh, the leading tiger conservationist and famed honorary wildlife warden of the Ranthambore National Park, Clinton was one of his "most intelligent visitors." The president knew a lot about Ranthambore, its tigers and Fateh Singh. He spoke knowledgeably about birds, about American crocodiles and about his desire to convert large stretches of land in the US into national parks, on the lines of Ranthambore.

President Clinton records his appreciation

"It looks like he goes well-prepared everywhere," says Singh, who was removed from the Park's wardenship a few weeks ago for pointing out that Bamburam, the tiger spotted by Clinton, may be dead. He was reinstated a fortnight ago, after the state government realised Singh may have spoken the truth after all.

Ranthambhore is full of Clinton folklore. It seems when the President spotted Bamburam, he "was flabbergasted" and could not stop staring at the tiger. "He never gave an impression he was the president of the world's most powerful country. Here, in India, as soon as our leaders realise they have become leaders, they behave like they are great people," says Singh.

At another spot in the park, they spotted a tigress hiding behind some bushes, as she stalked a herd of deer. The president turned to Singh and asked, "Has she killed it? Is the deer bleeding?" When Singh said no, a relieved Clinton sighed, "Thank God! My daughter won't be upset. She doesn't like to see blood."

At Nyala, the village on the outskirts of Jaipur, the president is a local hero.

"Once you forget his other images, the president came across as a very sensitive person," says Dr Kanchan Mathur, who is associated with the Institute of Development Studies, Jaipur. She played interpreter between the president and the women of Nyala and its surrounding villages. "Given his status, he was a very good listener. And very easy, very relaxed. He is very unlike our political leaders."

However, there is regret too.

President Clinton poses with the Maurya's staff

There were several promises made in front of Clinton -- that Nyala would be developed into a model village, that information technology would reach every village of Rajasthan, that more money and time would be devoted to empowering women. The proposals seem to have fallen by the wayside -- Nyala remains backward, computers are nowhere to be seen and the women continue to be exploited.

But sitting by the good roads developed specially for Clinton's visit, Nyala's villagers still cherish that hot March afternoon, when the president broke away from his security cordon to dance with them, to plunge into the crowd and meet the people.

Rajiv Mohan Lall Mehra and his assistant Neeraj Khanna had been told that Clinton might visit their store, Ganeshi Lal and Son Private Limited, at the Maurya Sheraton hotel in Delhi. On March 19, 2000, he did.

"'Good evening'," recalls Rajiv, "the president said as he shook hands with us. He had a warm smile on his face. He asked Neeraj how he felt working for a place like this. He looked around for a while before asking to see a few, specific items. He was very impressed with our wares. He even bought some things, but I cannot tell you what they were.

"Both he and his daughter were well-dressed; he was looking good. When I told him Jackie Kennedy, the former first lady, was our client, he said he was sorry his wife could not be with with him on this visit as she was preoccupied with her election campaign.

President Clinton signs the Ganeshi Lal store guestbook

"He signed our visitor's book and allowed us to take a few pictures with him. The security officials did not make a fuss. They kept their vigil outside while the president was in our shop. He spent about 20 minutes with us. His personality can easily overawe anyone. I got the impression he was a genuine human being. He was passionate and meant what he said."

In Varanasi, Professor Vir Bhadra Mishra, the man who mentors a drive to clean the Ganga, has this to say: "We would love to have him over in Varansi, to see our culture, our river and our people." Professor Mishra had introduced Clinton at Agra, where the president addressed a session on the environment.

Kak, though, has the final word. "He was an extremely charming person. We cherish those beautiful moments that we spent with him. The fact that he is no longer president is not going to affect us in any way. He is going to be one among the common people."

Page design: Dominic Xavier

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