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An oasis on the weary journey home

It is possible to do the Mangalore-Goa coastal stretch in a day itself, though it would be a day of marathon driving. We had decided to find a beach where we could break the journey. Our quest for such a beach sent us off on several false leads. Filthy lodges and hostile government rest-houses are the hallmarks of the tourist industry on this stretch. Maraventhe, where the highway makes its way between the pounding surf on one side and a placid lagoon on the other, is home to the Turtle Cove Tent Resort.

Though this place is scenically located, there is no electricity and facilities are almost primitive. Needless to say, it was deserted.

But there was a surprise in store. Murdeshwar, roughly one third the distance between Mangalore and Goa, is a temple town on the sea. A promontory juts out between two coves, and on this promontory is the temple, and unbelievable but true, a great place to stay.

The R N Shetty Trust Hotel is a mecca for the weary traveller, a category in which we now firmly belonged. Each room overlooks a stunning vista. The hotel is at a height, and you can look down over a luxurious blue bay, with an endless stretch of white sand and mountains. The water here is so clear that from our balcony perch we could see a good 20 feet into the sea.

The hotel itself, fully tiled both on its exterior and interior walls, is like one huge, spotlessly clean, bathroom. Ask for the corner rooms and for Rs 250 you are provided with a huge room with balconies and windows on three sides, surrounded by the sea. The food is strictly vegetarian, which is tragic, because the view from the rooms would have much more appreciated if accompanied by a platter of grilled prawns.

Return journeys are never as much fun. Suddenly the road drags on forever, it is unbearably hot, your clothes are filthy, your stubble is an irritation and you can't decide whether you should go back or just drive on forever. But of course you do go back, if only to develop your photographs.

What fun it is to spend hours sharing your travel tales with unsuspecting friends and family. What joy to show them your photographs as they silently choke in the background. What sheer ecstasy to discuss every detail of your trip in analytical detail, while those around you plot your murder.

All Photographs: Nader Parakh
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