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1,350 metres in five minutes... Onam comes to the backwaters George Iype. Photographs by P P Joy
Every year the legendary snake boat Karichal Chundan glides over the Punnamada backwaters in Alappuzha during Onam, the 10 days of feasting and harvesting celebrations in Kerala. Karichal is one of the eight snake boats in the race for the prestigious Nehru Trophy Boat Race this year. The 100-odd rowers of Karichal have shut out all their worries and are engaged in hectic trials.
Soon dark clouds are racing overhead shrouding the blazing sun in the afternoon. Rain or sun, misery or sorrow, the race is on and the rowers are all ready. Sugunan gives a set of commandments to his rowers. "From today onwards, you should not drink, smoke, go to work or indulge in any activity that reduces your stamina." "Let us take a solemn pledge that you will win this war. Conserve your strength, don't get into a fight with anyone even if challenged. But above all, remember always, our enemies like the Kargil infiltrators, would try to weaken us!" "It is this strict regimen that can help us win the race," says Sugunan. Karichal has won the race thrice in the last 10 years. The rowers in the 15 days preceding the race are fed a heavy lunch. Lunch comprises a liberal quantity of specially prepared beef fry, that the organisers insist sustains them through the rigorous rowing. 1,350 metres in five minutes. Soon, 100 oars simultaneously dip into the water. Karichal moves on. Oars flash to the rhythm of cymbals. Karichal, like other snakeboats, is a dugout more than 30 metres long with elaborately carved prows and bright silk umbrellas providing a shade. In the deep blue backwaters flanked by coconut palms on the northern tip and swayed by the wind and rain, Karichal looked like a black snake. Like Karichal, 16 snake boats are registered with the Alleppey Town Boat Club that conducts the annual Nehru Cup competition. The globally acclaimed water carnival dates back to December 22, 1952. Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru, along with his daughter Indira and her sons Rajiv and Sanjay, was visiting Kerala. Residents of Alapuzha and Kuttanad organised a grand reception for Nehru and his family by featuring a boat race at Munrothuruthu in the Vembanad backwaters. A special pavilion was erected at Munrothuruthu. A race of nine snake boats was quickly arranged. As Nadubhagom Chundan, a snake boat, arrived near the VIP pavilion, Nehru, unable to control his excitement, jumped into it. As the rowers took the prime minister to the backwaters, it created a flutter among police personnel.
Over the years, the competitive spirit of the famous event has declined. This year eight chundans could not enter the race because of financial problems. The rowers are not compensated monetarily. The organising committee says there is an acute shortage of funds. It is the rowers's love for the race that sustains the water carnival.
The Nehru Boat Race at Alapuzha is the most prestigious one. Similar boat races are on duing the Onam season in Aranmula, Champakulam, Cochin, Haripad and Kottayam. EARLIER FEATURES:
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